Le Loop 2023: Stage 9 Saint-Leonard-de-Noblat – Puy de Dome

Cycling summary

Breakfast: 06:00

Transfer: 45 minutes

Start time: 08:00

Distance: 182.4km

Terrain: Mountains (3,201 metres)

Climbs: 1 HC (Puy de Dome), 1 Cat 3, 2 Cat 4

Finish: 18:39

Time in saddle: 9h14

Temp: Fresh early on, rising to high 20s

Drinks: 4 litres

Suffer scores: 5 out of 10

Local lowdown

The last time the Tour came to Puy de Dome was in 1988. Though it has been closed to traffic for some time (no cyclists allowed since 2012), the Tour will finish at the top this time. We will have to stop 4km before the top though, but will have the opportunity to return on the rest day that follows and walk the last few km to the top.

Tale from the Tour

A super day to end on. The countryside was glorious and the temperature just perfect for cycling. There was soon no need for a gilet and so for the first time in days it was great to ride in just a jersey (and bib shorts). The afternoon consisted of “sunny intervals” rather than full sun or cloudy, so o got quite a tan today. Should have used more sunscreen but I’ve thankfully got no sunburn.

Quite a lot of bellowing from the herds of cows that we passed. Sounded as if they were complaining about all the cyclists going through!

Our route through one town was slightly disrupted as there was a festival going on. We had to skirt round the Main Street to get past the brass band that was playing. Intriguingly, though there was no sign of him, Asterix the Gaul and some of his friends were used on the advertising for this event!

We could see the Puy de Dome from a long way out – this one with about 70km to go.

Although the climbing metres mounted up over the day, there was nothing that felt particularly strenuous until the end. Maybe that’s our conditioning after nine days of this! The last climb out of Clermont Ferrand was tough though. Not only did it start steep, but it was also very busy – and on a Sunday too! I’d hate to think what that might be like on a weekday.

When I got to about 4km from the point where we had to turn around and come down (we could only go as far a Col de Ceyssat) I started to see riders coming back down on the way to the hotel. This was great encouragement: “not far to go now”, “keep going John”, “you’re nearly there”. I returned the favour by shouting similar encouragement to those that I saw when I was subsequently on my way down.

On arrival at the hotel I handed over my bike which I won’t now see until I pick it up in London on Thursday. Thank goodness!

All that was left now was to get cleaned up and fed and watered. Sorting out the suitcase can wait as I have a whole day here on the rest day tomorrow on which I plan to return to the Col de Ceyssat and walk to the top of the Puy de Dome and also plan to revert to human form rather than a hunched over and weary cyclist!

This wasn’t a day for suffering. Perhaps 5 is harsh, though it was the steep ascent out of town and the busy roads that probably did for that.

I’ve got one more post to publish once I’ve completed today’s rest day and am on the train to London via Paris tomorrow, then I’m all done for this year’s adventures with Le Loop, which once again has been first rate.